The Trailhead: Dog Training Resources from Dog Adventures Northwest! Little Kids Socialization

Socialization

Giving puppies favorable associations to the human world will help to create a well-balanced adult dog.

The primary socialization period for puppies is between the ages of 3 and 13 weeks (some argue it continues to 16 or 20 weeks), which means that if you adopted your puppy at 8-10 weeks, they are over halfway through this crucial period. It is essential that you use this time to safely and positively introduce your dog to the sights, sounds, smells, and situations of the human world. (Check out our blog post on vaccinations for puppies and the importance of socialization as an integral part of a dog's health, as endorsed by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.)

Note that once the "Critical Socialization Period” closes, all hope is not lost, not by a long shot. Adolescent and adult dogs still benefit from socialization, as the process can both create new positive associations and work to undo negative associations that may have been established in puppyhood. This process takes a little longer, and may not completely eliminate certain triggers, but it can go a long way toward helping a dog feel safe and comfortable in our human world.

At home and out-and-about, freely give your puppy tiny training treats when in the presence of children, men, funny hats, cats, bicycles, wheelchairs, other dogs, people in sunglasses, guys with beards, babies, thunder, fireworks, skateboards, boats, people running, people jumping, people dancing, etc. It is important for your puppy to learn that new experiences equal Good Things for Puppy.

When engaged in socialization, it's important for a dog to experience the world at their own pace. While offering your dog a variety of socialization experiences is wonderful, quality is far more important than quantity. One of the fathers of modern dog training, Dr. Ian Dunbar, recommends in his book, Before & After Getting Your Puppy (2004), that puppies should meet 100 people before 12 weeks of age. While this statement can be true, it is likely not a great idea for most dogs. Rushing a puppy through endless socialization when they are overstimulated is called "flooding," and usually leads to a dog that is overwhelmed and/or shut down. I would much rather a puppy experience positive interactions with 10 new people instead of overwhelming interactions with 100.

(Training Tip: An easy way to tell if a dog is overstimulated is if they stop taking high-value treats from you while in the presence of certain stimuli. You can also look for other signs of stress such as your puppy averting their gaze, turning away from the stimuli, freezing, licking their lips, putting their ears back, panting, drooling, etc. Dr. Sophia Yin has a great poster on this subject, which you can see here.) If you notice any of these signs, put more distance between your puppy and the "scary" thing right away... and then take infinitesimal, baby steps closer to the stimulus at a slower pace over several training sessions, with ample time in between.)

Create lots of practice situations in and around your home to help your puppy become desensitized to a variety of stimuli. Drop a pan from a quarter-inch above the ground and give your puppy a treat. Drop the pan from a half-inch, then an inch, then two inches, etc, progressing gradually, all the while observing your puppy closely for any signs of stress. By making the sudden noise and movement of clanging metal an indicator of a FUN GAME! and not a SCARY MONSTER!, we can check "clanging" off of the Genius Puppy Socialization Checklist.

Dogs are not very good at generalizing. So, though a dog may be completely desensitized to the sound of a pan clattering to the ground, they might be scared by something else falling to the ground, like a thick book or a bunch of keys. You can help your puppy learn to generalize by working through many different desensitization scenarios. Here are examples of just a few things you can desensitize in and around your home…

an umbrella opening
the sound of someone stomping around on another floor
sudden movements
billowing fabric
household appliances like a vacuum, hairdryer, and blender
bicycles and skateboards
door knocking
doorbells
funny hats and coats
balloons
a vibrating phone
clanking silverware
drawers banging shut

Remember that when your puppy is in the presence of one of these stimuli, they get treats, but that as soon as the stimuli stops/goes away, all treats stop.

You can also find a variety of sounds on YouTube that your puppy may not hear within the home (a baby crying, a siren, fireworks, thunder, a train horn, etc). Play the sounds at a low volume, giving your puppy treats while each sound plays (and stopping when the sound stops!). Begin with the volume at a very low level and gradually increase the volume if (and only if!) your puppy is having a fun time and enjoying the game. Consider also putting on environmental sound triggers at a low volume when your puppy is working on a food puzzle. If you see any signs of stress, lower the volume until your puppy doesn’t have an adverse reaction to the sound.

If you didn't click on the socialization checklist link above, please do so now! It's an invaluable tool in socializing a puppy. Print it out, fold it up, and keep it in the front pocket of your treat pouch!

Lesson Activity

Recommended Media for Puppy Socialization

Would you like to learn more about puppy socialization? Be sure to click through the links above. It’s also recommended to check out The Whole Dog Journal, which provides researched and science-based articles on a variety of issues. Check out any of the following for an easy-reading deeper dive: